Are you looking to visit the Kathmandu Durbar Square?
Well, you are in luck.
I have been living in Kathmandu for four years now and Kathmandu Durbar Square is one of those places I visit quite a lot because it is so incredibly beautiful.
On a nice and sunny day, people are hanging around on Kathmandu Durbar Square and there’s just so much to see and do and experience that I think this is one of the most important places to visit when you are visiting Nepal. The square is home to some of the most amazing temples in the city.
To help you visit Kathmandu Durbar Square and explore and experience everything, I have come up with a very comprehensive guide to Kathmandu Durbar Square that will help you as a tourist or a visitor to make the most out of your visit.
Note: Kathmandu Durbar Square is also known as Basantapur or Basantapur durbar square. Don’t be confused if these names are used interchangably.
If you are looking for the best things to do in Kathmandu, please read my article here.
Also Read: 10 Reasons why you need to visit Kathmandu Durbar Square before you die!
History of Kathmandu Durbar Square in Nepal
Before we dive into the guide I want to provide you with a little bit of history. That way you can really understand why this UNESCO world heritage site is so incredibly important and why people from all over the world travel to the city of Kathmandu to see this royal square.
Early history of the Durbar Square
The Durbar Square in Kathmandu is actually quite old.
The origins of the Durbar Square can actually be traced back to as early as the 3rd century AD. Sure, when you visit today there is nothing to see that still remains from the 3rd century as most palaces were actually constructed between the 12th and the 18th century, featuring a mix of reconstruction efforts in the present day. But the area itself had been a square with temples since then.
The area was initially developed under the Licchavi kings (450–750 CE), but it was only during the Malla dynasty, (the Mallas are some of the most important kings of Nepal) that most of the temples we see today were built.
Malla Period
The Malla period can actually be seen as the golden age for Nepal.
The Malla kings are the ones that built several of the big temples and palace complexes, in Kathmandu, in Patan and even in Bhaktapur, leaving behind a rich architectural heritage that has reached across generations.
During the Malla period, Kathmandu Durbar Square became a beautiful hub of art and architecture that really reflected the opulence and spirituality of the kingdom of Nepal, including the construction of the Jagannarayan temple.
Important temples built by the Malla kings of Kathmandu include the Taleju temple, which was built by King Mahendra Mala in 1549.
Shah Period
After the Malla period came the Shah era, which began when Prithvi Narayan Shah conquered the Kathmandu Valley in Nepal in 1769.
This was the end of the Mala rule and the beginning of a new era. Now luckily under the Shah dynasty, they actually added further temples and buildings to the square. The most significant buildings that were added were Kumari Bahal and Trailokya Mohan Narayan Temple which is a temple dedicated to lord Vishnu.
2015 Earthquake
I don’t think I can talk about the history of the Durbar Square without also talking about the 2015 earthquake.
Sadly, the 2015 earthquake caused a lot of damage to the Kathmandu Durbar Square. Many of the historic buildings and temples actually collapsed.
I remember when I visited in 2019 that there was still a lot of damage to be seen and many of the temples still had to be rebuilt.
Sure, restoration efforts have been ongoing since then and I have seen that quite a few temples that were nothing more than a pile of bricks in 2019 have now been rebuilt, which is amazing and I hope that within a few years the whole of the Kathmandu-Durbar Square can be seen back in its original glory.
Who built Kathmandu Durbar Square
There is no one man or one dynasty that has built the Kathmandu Durbar Square. The Lekhavi kings, the Mala kings, and the Shah kings all added successive contributions in different styles to different parts of the Kathmandu Durbar Square.
How many Durbar Squares are there in Kathmandu?
There is only one Durbar Square in the city of Kathmandu. There is also Patan Durbar Square in Patan, Lalitpur – just over the river from Kathmandu, and Bhaktapur Durbar Square in Bhaktapur, 20 km East (45 minute drive) of the city.
What to See on the Kathmandu Durbar Square
When you are visiting the Kathmandu Durbar Square, you probably will want to know what to see and what to do. Are there any buildings you need to keep an eye out for? What buildings or temples should you definately not miss?
Palaces
The Kathmandu Durbar Square houses several beautiful palaces:
Hanuman Dhoka Palace
Hanuman Dhoka is a palace on the Kathmandu Dhobar Square that is named after the statue of Hanuman (the monkey god) which you can find right next to the entrance.
Hanuman Dhoka was the royal palace of the Malla kings and later even the Shah dynasty. This beautiful complex, which is now a museum, dates back as early as the 4th to 8th centuries. The Malla and Shah dynasties built many extensions to the palace which means you might be able to pick out quite a few different architectural styles.
Inside Hanuman Dhoka you will find several beautiful courtyards such as Nazal Chowk and Mulhan Chowk.
At the moment the palace is a museum where you can learn more about the royal families of Nepal and Nepali culture.
Gaddi Baithak
Gadhi Baitak was built in the early 20th century in what is known as the Rana period. It is a beautiful white neoclassical building and you will notice that it was incredibly influenced by western architectural styles, introducing a unique feature to the local landscape.
Gaddi Baithak is actually quite unique when you look at the buildings in Nepal and the traditional Nepalese architecture of the region.
The building itself here was traditionally used for royal coronations and very important state functions.
Sadly Gaddi Baithak was damaged quite badly in a 2015 earthquake and they have been restoring it since. Last thing I heard they were planning to make it into a museum.
Kumari Bahal (Home of the Living Goddess, Kumari)
Kumari Bihal is a gorgeous palace built around a courtyard with a beautiful old tree in the middle. It was built in the 18th century during the reign of King Jayaprakash Mala.
Kumari Bihal, which is also known as Kumari Gar (house of the Kumari), is where the living goddess or the Kumari lives. The Kumari is a little girl and she is seen as the corporeal body of the goddess Taleju.
The building itself is actually a very fine example of the traditional Newar architectural style. Inside the courtyard you will see beautifully carved wooden windows and balconies.
If you are really lucky you can sometimes see the Kumari look out through one of the windows, especially during festivals.
Temples
There are also lots of temples on the Kathmandu Durbar Square. Here are the temples you should definately visit:
Taleju Temple
The Taleju Temple was constructed in 1549 by King Mahendra Mala.
Taleju is the goddess Taleju Bawani, a form of Durga, which is a goddess revered by both Hindus and Buddhists. The temple is historically significant because Taleju is the royal deity of the Mala kings.
You will immediately notice the Taleju temple because it is incredibly high. It is a multi-tiered structure in a pagoda style in traditional Nepali temple architecture. To be fair, the temple is usually closed for public except during certain festivals when devotees can enter to worship.
Jagannath Temple (notable for erotic carvings)
Another temple you need to visit is the Jagannath Temple. This temple probably dates back to the 16th century and is dedicated to Lord Jagannath, which is a deity that is associated with Lord Vishnu.
This beautiful temple is not only known for its religious importance, but also because if you look a bit closer, you can see erotic carvings on the roof struts, which is incredibly unusual for a temple.
They believe that the erotic carvings actually represent the tantric practices and these were ideas that were very prevalent at the time that this temple was constructed.
Trailokya Mohan Narayan Temple
Trilokya Mohan Narayan Temple is a temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu and part of the larger Thaleju complex. The temple was built during the reign of Pratap Mala in the 17th century and is notable for its five-tiered structure.
When you look a bit closer, you will also see that the temple contains very beautiful decorations and antique paintings and portraits of deities inside.
Kalbhairav shrine
Kalbhairav is a shrine by one of the most fearsome images of Lord Shiva. Here you can see Lord Shiva in his destructive manifestation as Bhairav. It is probably also one of the most famous statues you can find on the Kathmandu Durbar Square.
The monument is several feet tall and completely made out of black stone. They think it dates back to the 17th century. The statue is beautifully painted and you can see that Bhairav has a big necklace of skulls around his neck.
I would recommend you burn a little candle here because it is a very nice thing to do and people are actually very interested in showing you how to do this. Burning a candle here means that you will ask for protection or to take away the things that make you scared.
How to Get To the Kathmandu Durbar Square
If you want to visit the Kathmandu Durbar Square, there are several ways you can get to the square. Here I will explain how to get there from Thamel and from New Road. If you are not staying in Thamel I would recommend you take a taxi to the roundabout on New Road – but more about this later on.
How to get to Kathmandu Durbar Square from Thamel
If you want to get from Thamel to Kathmandu Durbar Square, I would highly recommend you walk.
The walk is very straightforward and easy and honestly not that long. It will take you about 20 minutes to walk down or 1.3 kilometers and I promise that the way to Kathmandu Durbar Square will bring you past beautiful markets and shops and there’s a lot to see on the way.
You basically walk all the way down to Ason Bazaar and from Ason Bazaar you head to the gorgeous Indra Chowk (Have a Lassi here!). Then From Indra Chowk you walk straight past all the gold shops which is when you will notice a roundabout. On your left you will see Ganga Path and the Durbar Square.
Tip: On Ganga Path you will see the offices of the Kathmandu Fire Brigade. Have a look through the shutters because they house some pristine and beautiful old fire trucks!
Thamel is one of the best areas to stay in Kathmandu. I have written several articles on Thamel including this one on the best hotels in Thamel and this one on the best restaurants in Thamel.
Going to Kathmandu Durbar Square by taxi
If you are staying in a hotel outside of Thamel and you are taking a taxi to the Durbar Square, you should ask the taxi driver to drop you off at the roundabout on New Road, so you can easily reach the square. This will bring you to the start of Ganga Path from where you can see the gorgeous roofs of the Durbar Square.
Visitor Information
Here I have gathered some of the visitor information you might want to have before visiting the Kathmandu Durbar Square.
Entry fees
The entry fees to the Kathmandu Durbar Square are 1000 NPR.
Tip! If you are staying in Kathmandu for a week or longer, I would recommend getting a little visitor pass made. If you bring your passport and a passport picture together with your newly bought ticket, they will make you a little pass for the Kathmandu Durbar Square so you can visit as much as you like during your stay.
Opening hours
If you look online it will say that the Durbar Square is open from 10 AM to 3 PM. This is wrong. The square is open all day every day. There is no way to close it off since it is a square…
Best times to visit
The absolute best time to visit is either early in the morning or at noon. Early in the morning you can see people from the area bring offerings and do their morning rituals at Jagannarayan temple, while between midday and 1PM it tends to be pretty empty. There is a real ebb and flow of daily life in this sacred location.
Are there public toilets at Kathmandu Durbar Square
Yes there are public toilets on Ganga Path (the road that runs from New Road down to the Durbar Square), but these are not always very clean. Instead, depending on your location, you can head to the Himalayan Java Coffee, order a coffee to go and go to the toilet there. I have always found these toilets to be very clean.
Insider Tips and Tricks
As someone who has visited the Kathmandu Durbar Square numerous times, here I will offer some insider tips and tricks for when you visit this UNESCO world heritage site.
How to avoid crowds
The best time to go to the Kathmandu Durbar Square to avoid the crowds is early in the morning. It is honestly my favourite time because you will see locals come and bring offerings before they head to work. There aren’t many tourists around then either so you will more or less have the square to yourself.
Another time that is good is during lunch so between midday and 1PM. Most largs tour groups will have headed to their lunch spot by then and most locals are still working (they have lunch a bit later).
Recommended local guides or tour services
There is an official guide that hangs around at the ticket offices. He is really nice and friendly. He does try to take you to a mandala shop – but you can also just kindly refuse. He is very knowledgable and I thoroughly enjoyed his tour when we took it back in 2018. I still see him every time I head to the Durbar Square!
If you would rather take a tour, I would recommend taking this tour which will bring you to all the 7 UNESCO World Heritage sites. It is incredibly well reviewed!
Safety tips and cultural etiquette
Kathmandu is a very safe city. Although you might want to protect your stuff against pickpockets – espcially if it is busy, the chances of something getting stolen are actually very slim.
I do want to ask you not to climb onto temples or statues or stones. Some of them are very old and should be treated with respect. If you would like to take pictures of people praying, that’s often okay, but it might be a good idea to ask permission first.
How to See the Kumari
If you have done a bit of research, you will probably have read about the Kumari. This is a little girl who is believed to be the living incarnation of the godess Taleju. As you will have read earlier on, Taleju is a very important godess in the Kathmandu Valley, and it was the personal diety of the Malla dynasties.
Now, the Kumari is chosen through a rigorous – and let’s be honest, rather gruesome process. First of all a group of girls is chosen based on physical characteristics such as the colour of their eyes and even the shape of their teeth. Then they also need to endure a number of tests to test their courage and serenity.
During the selection process on Ghatak Yatra, the girl they think might be the Kumari will be taken into a dark room with lots of buffalo heads lying around. Men will dance around her, trying to scare her. She needs to remain calm and composed.
Can you visit the Kumari
If you are a Hindu, there are ways to visit the Kumari, however, if you are not a hindu you will need to wait until there is a festival or feast where the Kumari will be brought out. Some of the key festivals are:
- Indra Jatra
- Kumari Jatra
- Ghode Jatra
- Dashain
- Special occasions, ceremonies and important national days.
Can you see the Kumari on other days?
Probably not. I have been in Nepal for 4 years now and I have never seen her. It is said though that you can sometimes see her looking out of the windows in Kumari Ghar – so that is probably your best bet.
Festivals and Events you can see on Kathmandu Durbar Square
If you are visiting Nepal, here are some festivals you might want to look out for when visiting the Durbar Square:
Indra Jatra
- Timing: Usually held in September.
- Highlights: This is one of the most important festivals for the Newar community of the Kathmandu Valley. The festival also includes the Kumari Jatra. This is when the Living Goddess Kumari is paraded around the square in a gorgeous golden chariot. On the Durbar Square you will also see a lot of traditional dances by people wearing masks. These represent various deities and demons, and a pole (lingo) is erected on IndraChowk closeby to invite rain.
Holi
- Timing: Celebrated in March.
- Highlights: Holi is one of the few Hindu festivals that is known all over the world. Holid is also known as the festival of colours and is celebrated by people throwing colored powders and water at each other (do be careful with the water though as it can be very tepid). It is one of my absolute favourite festivals in Kathmandu and people are incredibly happy when tourists join in!
Dashain
- Timing: Typically occurs in September or October.
- Highlights: Dashain is the longst festival in Nepal. It can be seen as the Christmas of Nepal as it holds the same importance to the Nepali people, marking a significant feature in their cultural and religious celebrations. The festival is marked by prayer, animal sacrifices to Durga, and the receiving of blessings from grandparents and great-grandparents. There isn’t that much to see on the Durbar Square during Dashain but you will probably see a lot more people coming to pray in beautiful clothes.
Tihar (Diwali)
- Timing: Takes place shortly after Dashain in October or November.
- Highlights: Thihar is the Nepali festival of Diwali. I love Tihar so much because the whole city gets lit up just after sundown – including the Durbar Square. Tihar spans several days and various animals including crows, cows and dogs get worshipped.
Gai Jatra (Festival of Cows)
- Timing: Celebrated in August.
- Highlights: Another festival I absolutely love is Gai Jatra. During Gai Jatra families commemorate their family members who died in the past year. They will take part in a parade where a young boy or girl will be dressed in white with a beautiful drawing (often coloured in themselves) of the head of a cow on their head.
Maha Shivaratri
- Timing: Held in February or March.
- Highlights: Maha Shivaratri is a festival that sees thousands of people visit Shiva temples all over the city, including on the Durbar Squares. You will also see lots of Sadhus from all over Nepal and India gather on the Durbar Square to celebrate and hold night-long prayers and sing hymns.
Teej
- Timing: Usually in September.
- Highlights: Teej is the women’s festival where women fast, dance, sing and pray. You will see women all over town dressed in gorgeous red saries. There will be lots of little parties going on where women are dancing on the Durbar Square. Many of them will also be praying and performing rituals around the Durbar Square.
Shopping and Dining
If you are looking for great shopping and dining near the Durbar Square, you are in luck! There are some really good places to go go. here are my recommendations:
Local crafts and souvenirs available around the square
There are some vendors selling souvenirs on the Durbar Square. Most of them are very cheap. If you get a price in USD, walk away. It means they are trying to take you for a ride.
The Nepali culture will allow for haggling. Obviously, when you get offered a price you deem fair (I remember a lady trying to sell 6 purses for 500 rupees – not going to haggle on a price like that) you can just agree as these people are also trying to feed their families.
Spice shopping
If you walk to Ason square, you will notice there are quite a few spice shops. This is where I often get my spices from. Be sure to pick up Black Pepper (it is so great!), Sichuan pepper (cheap in Kathmandu compared to Europe), Kasoori Meti (if you want to make some butter Chicken when you are home) and their yellow curry.
Fabric Shopping
I often go to Ason and Indrachowk for fabric shopping. Indrachowk used to have lots and lots of shawl sellers on the temples but they have now been moved on by the Mayor of Kathmandu. Nobody really knows where to. You can still find some shawls in the surrounding shops.
In the back of Indrachowk you can also find some fabric shops including Linnen Club. They have nice stuff but can be on the expensive side. I have also received two different prices in the past (one expensive price going on a monday and another cheaper on a wednesday) so do be careful and don’t pay too much. A fabric shop I highly recommend is AVS which is a bit further down the street near Shree Gha. They have the absolute best patterns and fabrics!
Recommended restaurants and street food near Kathmandu Durbar Square
Nepal isn’t really a street food kind of country. Not in the same way as India is, for instance. But I would recommend you stop at Indrachowk and have one of the famous Lassis. I literally cannot walk past without buying one. It is like drinking the nectar of the gods. Very creamy and sweet. A big one is about 80 NPR if I am not mistaken.
There is a Himalayan Java Coffee nearby which is always a good choice, and I would also recommend The Comic Cafe if you are looking for something a bit more Insta-worthy.
If you want a view of part of the Durbar Square you can go to Durbar View Restaurant which is located in the same building as the Himalayan Java, but the food and drinks are expensive and not amazing – you come here for the view.
For rooftop views you can also try Heritage rooftop cafe and you can head to Temple Palace Cafe if you want to eat in a beautiful old building.
Attractions near the Kathmandu Durbar Square
- Garden of Dreams: the garden of dreams is a gorgeous neoclassical garden about a 20-minute walk from Durbar Square. Here you can walk around and even have a cocktail or two!
- Narayanhiti Palace Museum: Narayanhiti Palace museum is one of the places I always like to recommend. It is a former royal palace that is turned into a museum. This is where the Nepali monarchy lived until 2008. Inside you will find anything and everything that showcases the royal family’s lifestyle and history.
- Thamel Area: Thamel is the tourist area of Kathmandu with lots of bars, restaurants and hotels. It’s a great place to do some shopping or go for a bite and a drink.
- Seto Machhendranath Temple: this temple is slso known as Jan Bahal. It is dedicated to the god of rain in both the hindu and the buddhist faiths. Every year the statuette inside is paraded around Kathmandu (Not Patan, they have their own!) on a big wagon with a pole. People will try to climb the wagon and the pole as it is pulled around the city!
- Indra Chowk and Ason Markets: I absolutely love the bustling markets at Indra Chowk and Ason. Here you will be able to find fabrics, jewelery, souvenirs and spices.
Map of the Kathmandu Durbar Square
Here is a map of the temples in the square. Kathmandu Durbar Square is situated in the centre of Kathmandu and the square was designated a UNESCO world heritage site.
